Mesmerizing. That’s what it’s like to watch the cascading bubbles in a glass of freshly poured beer carbonated with nitrogen in addition to the far more common carbon dioxide. As the bubbles slide down the interior of the glass and the thick, creamy head rises to the top, the foam concentrates the brew’s aroma so you can taste it even before you bring the glass to your lips. And when you tilt the glass back, the velvety mouthfeel of nitrogenated beer allows all its flavors to linger on your taste buds.
Only a few large breweries (Ireland’s Guinness, most famously, since they pioneered the concept) and even fewer microbreweries (Left Hand and Oskar Blues, both in Colorado coincidentally, come to mind) sell nitrogenated beer in retail containers. But the vast majority of beers, whether served from a tap at your favorite watering hole or poured from a bottle or can at home, are carbonated using carbon dioxide.
Set a NitroBrew on your counter, and you can add the benefits of nitrogen to any beer you like. The company says its device can deliver equally good results with iced coffees and other drinks, too, but I sampled only beers. A great number of them. All in the name of research, of course. More on that in a bit.
The NitroBrew kit consists of three components: A countertop air compressor, a stainless steel kettle, and a nitrogen charging station. Pour the beer you wish to nitrogenate into the kettle, close its twist-lock lid, push the nozzle into the charging station, and then press the kettle’s plunger button down about halfway. The charging station scavenges nitrogen from the air as the compressor injects it into the kettle. The kettle’s ingeniously designed lid automatically locks as the air pressure inside increases, forming a leak-proof seal. Once the compressor shuts off (NitroBrew recommends setting it to 35psi), give the kettle a good shake to distribute the nitrogen gas throughout the beer. Turn it upside down over a glass and push the plunger all the way in to dispense the beer.
For my first home-nitro experience, I purchased a growler of Wildcard’s third-anniversary brew: Their excellent Double Down imperial red ale aged in pinot noir barrels. I’ve had mixed experiences with beers aged in wine barrels—the essence of the wine can overwhelm the flavor of the beer—but the Redding, Calif.-based Wildcard pulled it off perfectly. I thought I had nothing but a glass of foam the first time I poured beer from the NitroBrew kettle, but this settled into a high, creamy, and persistent head within 30- to 45 seconds. The beer tasted great straight from the growler, but injecting nitrogen into it intensified its flavor and reduced its acidity.
Over the course of the next couple of weeks, I nitrogenated a number of other beers, including Bear Republic’s Racer 5 (an India Pale Ale from a bottle) and three darker brews—varieties more typically associated with nitrogen carbonization: Sierra Nevada’s Chocolate Chili Stout (from a growler), a Wildcard Brewing Reason for the Season (a bottled coffee cream stout), and an Oakshire Brewing Espresso Stout (from a can). After A/B taste tests with each brew, I found that I enjoyed the taste and the mouthfeel of the nitrogenated version more than I did the version carbonated solely with carbon dioxide.